A dripping kitchen faucet is often caused by a worn cartridge, washer, seal, O-ring, or another replaceable internal part.
However, the correct repair depends on the faucet design and on where the water is leaking.
Before buying parts or taking the faucet apart, identify the leak location, find the faucet model if possible, and shut off the water supply.
Many ordinary faucet repairs are suitable for DIY work, but forcing stuck components or using the wrong replacement part can turn a small leak into a larger plumbing problem.
First, Identify Where the Faucet Is Leaking
Watch the faucet carefully before disassembling anything.
Common leak locations include:
- Water dripping from the spout when the faucet is off
- Water leaking around the handle
- Water appearing around the base of the spout
- Water leaking from connections underneath the sink
- Water leaking from a pull-out or pull-down hose
These problems may have different causes.
A dripping spout often points to an internal valve or sealing component, while water underneath the sink may come from a hose, supply connection, or another fitting.
Find the Faucet Brand and Model If Possible
Before taking the faucet apart, look for:
- A manufacturer name or logo
- A model number
- Installation paperwork
- A product label underneath the sink
Faucet cartridges and other internal parts are often model-specific.
Two replacement cartridges that look similar may not be interchangeable.
If you cannot identify the model, take clear photos as you disassemble the faucet and keep the original part for comparison.
Tools and Materials You May Need
Depending on the faucet, useful items can include:
- Phillips or flathead screwdriver
- Hex key or Allen wrench
- Adjustable wrench
- Needle-nose pliers
- Small bucket or bowl
- Clean cloths
- Replacement cartridge, washer, O-ring, or seal
- Plumber’s grease approved for the faucet components
You may not need all of these.
Use tools that fit the fasteners correctly to reduce the chance of damaging decorative parts or screw heads.
1. Shut Off the Water Supply
Before removing the handle or internal faucet components, shut off both the hot and cold water supplies.
The shutoff valves are commonly located underneath the sink.
Turn the valves to the closed position, then open the faucet to confirm that the water has stopped and to relieve remaining pressure.
Do not assume a valve is closed simply because you turned the handle.
Verify that water no longer flows.
What If the Shutoff Valve Does Not Work?
Old shutoff valves can become stuck, leak, or fail to stop the water completely.
Do not force a fragile valve aggressively.
If the local shutoff cannot reliably stop the water, you may need to use the appropriate main water shutoff or have the valve repaired before opening the faucet.
2. Protect the Sink and Drain
Small screws, clips, and other parts can easily disappear into the drain.
Close the drain or cover it with a clean cloth.
Place another cloth over the sink surface if you will be using metal tools near a finish that scratches easily.
Keep removed parts in the order they were taken out.
Taking a photo at each stage can make reassembly much easier.
3. Determine What Type of Faucet You Have
The internal design determines which parts control the water.
Common designs include:
Cartridge Faucets
These use a removable cartridge to control water flow and, in many designs, temperature.
They may have one or two handles.
Compression Faucets
Traditional compression faucets commonly use separate hot and cold handles and sealing washers or related valve components.
Ball Faucets
Some single-handle faucets use a ball-style valve assembly with seats, springs, seals, and other components.
Ceramic-Disc Faucets
These use ceramic sealing surfaces inside a valve or cartridge assembly.
Do not rely only on the appearance of the handle to identify the internal design.
When possible, confirm the faucet model or consult the manufacturer’s parts diagram.
4. Remove the Handle Carefully
The handle may be held by:
- A visible screw
- A screw hidden beneath a decorative cap
- A small set screw accessed with a hex key
Remove the fastener and lift the handle according to the faucet design.
If it does not move easily, stop and inspect it again.
Do not pry aggressively against finished surfaces.
Mineral deposits or a retaining component may be holding the handle in place.
5. Inspect Before Removing More Parts
Once the handle is removed, examine the faucet.
Look for:
- Loose retaining nuts
- Damaged O-rings
- A worn cartridge
- Visible mineral deposits
- Cracked plastic components
- Corrosion
- Incorrectly seated parts
Do not replace every visible component automatically.
Identify the part associated with the leak whenever possible.
6. Replacing a Cartridge
Cartridge removal varies significantly between faucet models.
A cartridge may be secured by:
- A retaining nut
- A retaining clip
- A cap
- Another model-specific locking component
Remove the retaining part first.
Then remove the cartridge according to the manufacturer’s procedure.
Do not automatically grip an expensive or fragile cartridge with pliers and pull as hard as possible.
Some cartridges require a specific removal tool, especially when mineral deposits have made them difficult to remove.
Match the Replacement Exactly
Compare:
- Overall shape
- Length
- Tabs and locating features
- Seal positions
- Part number when available
Install the new cartridge in the correct orientation.
Some cartridges can physically fit in more than one position but operate incorrectly if installed the wrong way.
7. Repairing a Compression Faucet
A compression-style faucet may drip because of a worn washer, seal, valve-seat problem, or another worn component.
After shutting off the water and removing the appropriate valve stem, inspect the sealing parts.
Replace parts that are:
- Cracked
- Hardened
- Torn
- Deformed
- Otherwise visibly damaged
Use replacement components that match the original dimensions.
A washer that is almost the right size may still leak.
8. Repairing a Ball Faucet
Ball-type faucets can contain several small components, including:
- Seats
- Springs
- Seals
- O-rings
- The ball assembly itself
Because the arrangement varies by design, keep the parts organized during disassembly.
Repair kits designed for the specific faucet can be easier and more reliable than guessing which individual seal has failed.
9. Repairing a Ceramic-Disc Faucet
Ceramic-disc assemblies are generally durable, but seals, cartridges, or other components can still fail.
If the faucet uses a replaceable cartridge assembly, replacement may be more practical than attempting to modify the internal ceramic components.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific model.
Do not sand or reshape ceramic sealing surfaces unless the manufacturer specifically provides such a repair procedure.
10. Inspect O-Rings and Seals
Water leaking around the base of a rotating spout may be related to an O-ring or seal.
If the faucet design allows the spout to be removed, inspect the seals for:
- Cracks
- Flattening
- Hardening
- Damage during previous installation
Replace them with the correct size.
If lubrication is specified, use a lubricant compatible with potable-water plumbing components and the seal material.
Do not substitute random household grease.
11. Clean Mineral Deposits Carefully
Mineral deposits can interfere with moving parts and sealing surfaces.
Remove loose deposits gently.
Mild cleaning methods may be appropriate for removable components, but always consider the material and finish.
Acidic cleaners such as vinegar can damage some finishes, coatings, stones, or components if used incorrectly.
Do not soak an entire faucet assembly in vinegar simply because there is mineral buildup.
Follow manufacturer guidance for finished and specialty surfaces.
12. Do Not Use Thread-Seal Tape Everywhere
PTFE thread-seal tape is useful on certain threaded plumbing connections.
It is not a universal faucet repair material.
Many faucet connections seal using:
- Gaskets
- O-rings
- Compression fittings
- Factory-installed seals
Adding tape to a connection that was not designed for it may interfere with proper assembly.
Use thread-seal tape only where the fitting or manufacturer calls for it.
13. Clean the Aerator If Water Flow Is Poor
A clogged aerator can reduce or distort water flow.
This is usually a separate problem from a faucet that drips while shut off.
If flow is weak:
- Remove the aerator if the design allows it.
- Keep track of the order of screens and washers.
- Rinse away loose debris.
- Clean mineral deposits using a method appropriate for the components.
- Reassemble the aerator correctly.
Do not assume cleaning the aerator will repair an internal valve leak.
14. Reassemble the Faucet
Once the damaged component has been replaced, reinstall the parts in reverse order.
Pay particular attention to:
- Cartridge orientation
- Retaining clips
- O-ring placement
- Washers
- Handle position
Tighten fasteners securely but do not overtighten them.
Plastic housings, cartridges, seals, and decorative components can be damaged by excessive force.
15. Turn the Water Back On Slowly
Once the faucet has been reassembled, slowly reopen the water supply.
Watch underneath the sink while doing this.
Check:
- Supply connections
- The faucet body
- The handle area
- The base of the spout
- Any hose connections
Then operate the faucet several times.
Verify that:
- Hot and cold water operate correctly
- The handle moves normally
- The spout no longer drips when shut off
- No new leak has appeared underneath the sink
What If the Faucet Still Drips?
If the leak remains, do not immediately tighten everything harder.
Possible causes include:
- The wrong replacement cartridge
- The cartridge installed in the wrong position
- A damaged seal
- A retaining component installed incorrectly
- Debris on a sealing surface
- A damaged valve body
- Another component that was not originally identified
Disassemble only as far as necessary to inspect the repair.
Compare the replacement part with the original again.
What If Water Leaks Under the Sink?
A leak underneath the sink may not involve the internal faucet valve at all.
Inspect:
- Hot and cold supply hoses
- Supply-line connections
- Pull-out or pull-down faucet hoses
- Quick-connect fittings
- The faucet mounting area
Dry the area first so you can identify exactly where fresh water appears.
Avoid blindly tightening every nut.
Some fittings seal with washers or gaskets and can be damaged by overtightening.
Could Water Pressure Be Causing the Problem?
Abnormally high plumbing pressure can contribute to problems with fixtures, valves, hoses, and appliances.
However, a dripping faucet should not automatically be blamed on pressure.
If several fixtures are behaving unusually, pressure appears excessive, or you suspect a problem with the home’s pressure-control system, have the pressure measured properly.
Recommended pressure ranges and regulatory limits can vary by plumbing system and location.
A qualified plumber can diagnose pressure problems and determine whether a regulator or other repair is required.
When Should You Replace the Entire Faucet?
Age alone is not a reason to replace a faucet.
Replacement may make more sense when:
- The faucet body itself is cracked
- There is serious corrosion
- The valve body is damaged
- Critical replacement parts are unavailable
- Several different components are failing
- A previous repair has damaged the faucet
- Repair costs approach the cost of a suitable replacement
A well-maintained older faucet with available parts may still be perfectly serviceable.
How to Reduce Future Faucet Problems
Faucets do not normally require a complicated maintenance schedule.
Instead:
- Do not force handles beyond their normal stop.
- Deal with small leaks before they become larger.
- Clean mineral buildup using methods safe for the faucet finish.
- Clean the aerator when flow becomes restricted.
- Replace worn hoses or seals when deterioration is visible.
- Use manufacturer-approved replacement parts where practical.
There is usually no reason to dismantle a working faucet every year just to inspect O-rings.
Unnecessary disassembly can create leaks that were not there before.
Quick Leaky Faucet Checklist
- Identify exactly where the water is leaking.
- Find the faucet brand and model when possible.
- Shut off both water supplies before disassembly.
- Confirm that the shutoff valves actually stopped the water.
- Cover the drain and organize small parts.
- Take photos before removing complicated components.
- Match replacement cartridges and seals carefully.
- Do not force stuck cartridges or handles.
- Use compatible plumber’s grease only where appropriate.
- Do not add PTFE tape to connections that do not require it.
- Reopen the water slowly and inspect for new leaks.
When to Call a Plumber
Professional help is sensible when:
- The water supply cannot be shut off reliably.
- A shutoff valve begins leaking while you work.
- The faucet body is cracked or badly corroded.
- A cartridge is seized and cannot be removed safely.
- The leak is coming from plumbing inside the wall or cabinet structure.
- Water damage is developing around the sink.
- The leak continues after the correct internal components have been replaced.
- You are unsure which plumbing connection is leaking.
Stopping before damaging the faucet or plumbing is often less expensive than trying to force a repair.
Conclusion
The most reliable way to fix a leaky kitchen faucet is to diagnose the leak before replacing parts.
Identify where the water is escaping, determine the faucet design, shut off the water, and inspect the internal components carefully.
Replace only the parts that match your faucet, follow the manufacturer’s assembly method, and avoid forcing components or overtightening fittings.
After reassembly, restore the water slowly and check every nearby connection for leaks.
For more practical home repair guides, visit Fix & Repair.
